Tacking and stitching machine.



A. H. DE VOE.

TACKING AND STLTCHING MACHINE. ARPucmon 111:0 sm'. 6. 1912.`

1,164,789. Patented Dee. 21, 1915.

figa-Z 4 SHEETS-SHEET l.

11g if w 1 1111171.77

mymron @2&1

K M IW a TRNEY TACKING AND SlTHiNG MACHINE.

,Awl H. DE vof.

APPL'CATION FILED SEH. 6, |912.

Patented 21, 1915 4 SHEETS--SHEET 2.

' y uwen/70H A. H. DE VOE.

TAcKmG ANU sTlTcHlNG MACHINE.

MPUCATION FILD SEPT. 5. 19|2.

1,164,789. Patented De@.21,1915.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

INV NTOR f, La@ Iiya 4 nl: y B Y (jefa JMMQ A TTHNE Y A. H. DE VOE.

ACKING AND STITCHENG MACHNE.

APPucATmN man sEP. 6. 19m.

1,164,789. Patented De@.21,1915.

4` SHEETS-snaar 4.

i359. zz

KAM Y I UNTTED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ALBERT H. DE VDE, 0F WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, ASSIG-NOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION GF NEW JERSEY.

TACKING AND STITCHING MACHINE.

Specication of Letters Patent.

Patented Dee. 21. 1.915,

To n whom, it may macero.'

lie it known that I, ALBERT H. Dn Voir.,y a eitizen of the United States. residing at lllestfield. in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented eert-ain new and useful Improvements in Taeking and Stitching Mael/lines.y of which the following is a speeifiaition, reference being had therein to the aeeompanying drawings.

This invention has for its primary object to provide a` mechanism for applying to one of the flaps of a cloth shoe-upper one or more verd-loops to reeeive a` fa stelling member applied to the other Hap of the. shoe-Impex'. In the class of Japanese shoes .known as c"tabisf7 it is customary to apply to one of the, heel-flaps a cord which is doubled at the upperA edge of the liap and led downwardly in two parallel branches extending through and alternately on the outer and inner fares to provide on the outer face spaced parallel ord-loops hetween which and the fare of the flap the iat metallic tongues of fasteners serured to the inner fare of the other flap are inserted.

The invention has for its further olrieet the embodiment in a sewing machine of spor cial features for its adaptation for this and` other rlasses of work.

ln its preferred enihodiment.y the present improvement comprises stitch forming mechanism ineluding two reeiproeatinfr and reeiproeally jogging needles with correspondingly jogging loop-takers and rontrolling means whereby the jogging movements are peridieally produced and interrupted for the iroduction of spared groups of taeking stitelies eonneeted by series of straightzuvay stitehes. A controlling cam adapted to be uneoupled from its driving means after performing a predetermined number of taekforniing eyeles is employed to e'fl'eet the periodieal jogging movements of the stitrhforming meehanisni.y to produee the Close. sparing of the eomponent stitehes of tho ini-l tial tank. to control the number of intermediate straightaway stitrhes, and to regulate the sparing of the eomponent stitches of the succeeding taek or tacks. A counting de vire is preferably employed to determine the number of turns of the controlling ram. and henee the number of taeks in a completev stitehing eyele.

Each taek is preferably eoniposed oi= ai ternate single-step and twostep :,irerseani stitches, the former embracing andthe latter passing through the cord, so as to not only bind the eord firmly to the fabrie but to secure it against endwise displiuwenient thereon; and the straightaway stitches are formed in alinement with one edge` ol' the tack and therefore at one side of the eord so to avoid leaving any loose threadrinls at the intermediate taeks and to providel unstitehed portions of eord intermediate the tar-ks for engagement of the fasteners.

The invention will he understood in its details of eonstruetion by referenee to the aeeon'ipanying drawings. in whiehw Figure. l is a front side elevation of a two-needle sewing machine` embodying the improvement and Fig. Q a` plan of the saine with the bracket-arm removed and the liedplate slides ret aeted to expose the inoptaker meehanisin. Fig.. 3 is a` rear side elevation and Fig. 4 an under-side view of the machine. Figs. 5 and G are transverse sew tions showing portions of the feeding merli anisin. Fig. 7 is a front end view of the bed-plate and parts beneath, and Fig. S a transverse serftion of the entire maehine` upon a larger seule` showing the controlling ean'a with its actuating devicesl and parts eontrolled thereby. Fi g. 9 is a sectional ele ration of the needle-bar and a part of its operating means. and Fig. l0 a plan of a portion thereof. Figs. ll and lf2 are plan views oi' the needlewlamp. Fig. 13 a per speetive view of one of the needleaarriers, Fig. ll a perspeetive view of a` detail of the needhiogging means.` and Fig. 15 an end view of the needle-Gianni. Fig. 1G is a plan of the eontrolling rain and a portion of its aetuating means. Fig. 17 is a plan of the eyele counting nieehanism and Fig. in an end view of a portion of the same pai-ily in seetion. Figs. lll and t2() are perspeetive views of the presser-foot viewed from above and below the same. Figs. 2l. 2:2 and .33 are. perspertive views showing details of the eounting devine. Fig'. 2l is a` face. view of a portion of the tabl heel-Hap provided with eord-loops applied in aeeordanee with the present invention.

The machine shown in the drawings is of the, type represented in the UnitedY States patent to Charles F. Gray. No. @211.597, dated May 22. 1906. and eomln'ises a frana eonstrueted with the hedY il "lo 'l and bran arin eon'ifosed of the hollow standart-l fi i overhanging tubular arm 3 in which latter is journaled the main-shaft l earrying at its rearward end the balance-Wheel .3 with hellpulley (l.

flournaled in the head of the l'n'aclwbmni is the tubular needle-liar 7 upon the upper end of whieh is secured hy clamp-srrews S the splibcollar J carrying the lateral pin lo which is embraced hy the apertured lower end of the pitnian l1 Whose apex-lured opposite end embraces the usual rrank-pin 12 ot the take-up cani-Cylinder 13 lixcd upon the main-shaft 1. Aty its lower end the needlebar 'T is formed with lateral llai'iges 1l whose opposite edges are fitted between the sidewalls of the transverselyY channeled head 15 secured thereto h v means of the transverse screws 16. Fitted within the channel of the head 15 are the reciprocall)v sliding needle Carrying blocks 1T eaeh provided at one end with a redtieed portion 1T interposed heA tween the body portion of the other lilock and the adjacent Wall of the channel. as represented niore particularly in Figs. 1:2 and 13, and eaeh provided near the renter ot' its length with a 11eedle-soeket in whirl] the shank of a needle 18 is secured hy means ot the set-screw. 19. To an extremity of earl] block 17 is Secured by a screw Q0 a lient a rin 21 having an offset portion provided with a thread-guiding aperture arranged in .ful rance of its respective needle.

Near the larger end of eaeh block 17 is formed a Vertical aperture 2? enterelil h v the depending?` fulerum-pin Q-l oi" a link lo haiy ing at its opposite end the upwardlyY projecting pin QG entering,r one ol two diamelrically opposite apertures in the flange 2T which is housed in a recess in the lnwer end of the needle-liar i' and is formed upon the, lower end of the rod QS extending upu'aidliY through the needle-bar.

The collar 9 is formed with an upward extension 9 in which is jonrnaled the lower portion of a tubular rod it! to the louer end of which latter is applied through a lateral opening' between the parts 9 and il of tlucollar an intermediate collar lll through threaded apertures in whirh and the rod :En is inserted the set-e erew l1 hy which the); are secured lo the inner rod 2R whose nnper end enters the lower portion ot' the rod 2f?.

rrzxsented in Fig. S).

The tubular rod E29 is journaled in a hush-- ing;- Si! in the head ol the ln'ar'ket-arm which is embraced liv the space-d membersl 3:3 and 34 of a rocking bracket, :l5 journaled upon the rod Q9 and whose lower nleinher has a radial slit in which is secured hr the screw 36 the Spline 37 enteringr a longitudinal key-Way 3S of the rod 29. The upper memA her 33 of the hraeket 35 eat-ries a hall-stud 39 which is; enihraeed b v a strap 40 at one end of a` pitman 41 whose opposite end earrieti a stran l? embracing a stud 18 adios# ably secured ln.' means of the clamp-nut 41 within a slot nl5 ol the arm l@ ol' an anglelever lulcrinned at il upon the bracket-arm and ha ring a set-ond arm 48 Connected with the pitinan lli extending lflownwardlyr through the aperture il) ot' the standard i? and the hed-plate- The louer end ol" the pilllnan -lfl is pivotallr Connected nifl :i lateral aln'l 5l 0f :l reciting trame fr. u'hirh is `iournaled upon the leed rock-shalt nil sustained lieneath the hedlplai'e, The llame .32 has a .sec-ond lateral arm Til carryinfgf a |oller-tinl 55 which enters` a peripheral fl-ome fili of the Controllin;r ranru'hrel 'lhe rotation ol the (1am-wheel ."T hy means to he described iinparts rorking movements lo the frame 5:2 whirl: are transmitted through the deserihed connections to the rod 21% whose ('i'aiil -aiil'lpitnian eonnections with the needle-oarry ing hlork ll cause them to more redini-orally transrerseliv to tin'- direelion of reeiproration of the. noodle-har imparted hr the link con` neetion l1 with the crank pin 12 carried h v themain-shaft.

The nlain shalt lis provided with the usual ouartering cranks 5S enihraeed by straps :it the upper ends ot' the pitnlen 59 whose lon-er ends are einiilarl)Y provided with straps endnaeiner the quartering cranks {il} ot the lower shalt: tl jonrnaled beneath the hed-plate. The shalt (il has secured thereon the geanulirel (l2 meshing! with the pinion l fixed upon the intermediate Shaft (i4 which is iournaled in the hearingr menibers G5 dependingglf from the hed-plate -and 'ai-ries the bevel pinion (lli meshilnIr in turn with the hei'el pinion lll' whieh is .shown formed integral with the intermediate gear 6R mounted upon the stud (il) supported heneath the hed-platei'ldjustahly secured upon senta provided therefor upon the under side olI the hedplate h r means ol `reus Tl) passing through slotrY Tl therein are the feet ol brackets Til formed with spaced and alined parallel hearingr llosses Tel. lonrnaled in eaeh pair olh :dined hearing' houses; are the fnlrrunr pins T5 upon whirl; arr secured h v means of set-screws 'Ill the apared bosses TT of a jogging Frame Vformed with an upwardly eil tendinga hearing nunlllel' TH and a lateral arm T9 terminating in an apertured trans verse hosts Htl. ln eac'h ol the hearing! nien]- hers 7S is iournalrd the vertiral loop-taker shaft H1 haring secured upon its` lower end a pinion S2 meshing4 with the internudiale gear lh and haring upon its` opposite end the loop-taker Nil formed with the loop-seizir; r lil-ak Hl adapted lo cooperate rtwpeetively with the needles 1S and liaiin; r journaled therein the ,slationariY thrtnul-ease H5 provided with the usual rotation-restraining nieans and eontainingthe lower threadiohliia Sti.

lltl

The lateral arms 79 of the jogging frames extend in opposite directions and the boss 8O of each has slidingly fitted therein one end of a pivotal pin 87 whose opposite end is secured by a set-screw 88 in a transverse apertre at the lower end of a link 89. llach link 89 has at its upper end a second transverse aperture disposed at right angles with that at the lower end in which is secured a pivotal pin 90.

One of the pins 90 is slidingly fitted within an aperture in the laterally and torwardly extending crank-arm 91 of the rock ing frame 52 While the other pin 90 is similarly itted Within an aperture formed in the lateral extension 92 of the frame 52 and in alinenient with the aperture of the arm 91. The links 89 and pins 87 and 90 thus form a universal-joint connection between one of the bracketn arms 79 and the frame members 91 and 92, respectively, and serve to transmit to the loop-takers reciprocal lateral jogging movements corresponding with those of the respective needles. In practice the axes of the fulcru1n-pins T5 pass through the intermeshing points ot' the gears 08 and 89, so that the lateral movements ot' the loop taker shafts. do not materially affect the operative relation between the driving;r and driven gears.

Secured upon the lower shaft 61 is a Worin 93 meshing,` with the worin-wheel 94 which is shown formed integral with the sleeve 95 journaled upon the fixed tubular vertical bearing stud 96 and carrying the coupling disk J7 provided with the annularscries o1 uniformly spaced apertures 98. lVithin the bearingr stud 9G is journaled the tubular huh 99 of a disk 100 formed in its lower face with a radial'channel 101 Within which is {ith-d the rigid arm 102 secured to the shouldered lower end of the coupling rod 103 to which it is fastened by means of the nut 101.

The rod 103 is extended upwardly through the hub 99 of the disk 100 and has fixed upon its upper end above the bed-plate the thrust-collar 105. The arm 102 has extending: from its upper face the coupling stud 10G whose reduced upper portion 10T is adapted to enter one of the apertures 98 of the disk 97, but which is normally disengagcd from such disk by the action of a spring 10S interposed between a washer 109 resting upon the top of the arm 102 and the upper endof a socket formed therefor around the rod 103 in the hub 99 of the disk 100.

Tapped into threaded apertures 111 in the lower face of the annular flange 57 of the cam-wheel 57 are the screws 112J which sccure the camewheel to the upper face of the disk 100. Vhen the cam is coupled to the Worm-driven and constantly running: disk 97, as represented in Fig. 8, it causes the intermittent rocking ofthe frame 52 which causes the reciprocal jogging ot the needles and their respective lool'i-talnra in the production of parallel lines ol' straight away and zigzag stitching.

The shaft (S1 is shown provided with the feed-actuating cam or eccentric 11? upon the upper side of which rests4 the flat operative face 114 of a lateral arm 115 fixed upon the rocking sleeve 110 which is journaled upon the rock-shaft 117 mounted in the bearingi 'rf' members 11S dein-ruling` Jfrom the bed-pititeV The rock-shaft 11ihas fixed upon its rear- Ward end the depending and laterally tendini;r arm 119 haring a Wearing face 1""1 adapted for engagement with the op; side of the cani 118 vfrom the arm 11a. arms 115i and 119 are normally pressed t gcther by means of a spring 121 embracing` the sleeve 1113 and having' one extremity .se cured to a collar 12? fixed upon said sleeve and the other end attached to a collar .1211 secured upon the rock-shaft 117.

The arm 119 is shown provided in its rearward face With a segmental channel 124 in which is fitted the slide-hlock 125 haring pirotallf: connected therewith one end ot die bent link whose apertured opposite end is connected by means of the screwfpin liti with the upwardly extending; arm 1F28 se cured upon the feed rock-shaft 5P. flic sliding` connection between the arm 119 and the link 136 is shifted toward and from the rock-sha ft 11T by means of a link 120 pix votally connected by thc pin to the lint 120 at its lower end and attached at its` upper end .to the lateral arm 130 of the feedregulator roeleshal't 131 journalrd in and transversely of the standard 2 and haring fixed to its rearward end the fingenlever 121i.

Near its for ird end the feed rock-shaft 53` has r{cip-eri thereon the crank-aro; 13? carrying the stud-screw 131 which enters au apertured extremity ot the feed-har 135 to which is secured the usual feed-'draf 13G. The opposite endet the feed-bar is formed with the fork 13T which is in practice en tered by a slide-block carried by the stud 13R which is sustained by the lateral :ma 139 upon the jforward end o1E the Feed-lift rock-shaft 1470 to whose rearward end is secured the huh 141 of a laterallr ertendin.r arm 1-12 adapted to rest upon the feeddiliting cam or eccentric 113 fixed upon the lower shaft 61. 'lhe hub 1111 is provided in the top at one side of the rock-shaft with a socket between the bottom of which and the under side of the bed-plate 1 is inserted a spring 144: which normally presses the arm 1419, downwardly into operative relation with the lifting cam 143.

The feeiil-artuz'iling arm lill is formed at its outer evrrnltfwith a lateral seat 110' to which is secured by means oi' the screw 115 the hase of an arm 1li. formed with a transverse socket il? 'in ulrich is jcurmilcfi lilD thv siirtvwin 11Sy vzn'rvinf :1t it3 univr vnti rthv vuln-trnvk1 1.3; :111:1 1311 :1rv 0 rvhitvti to thv firm 1111 :mit roiivr-Htnii '1411 that thvj' 4vrvv :is stops in thv rot:1tion n1 thv mln whvvi :evting in opposition to thv spying 121 to prvvvnt thv continuons `vngfngfvnivnt nt' thv :erin 1111 with thv :lvtnriting vnm .113. thv vzina-trzivh 152 pvvlnitting vngugvmvnt oni)Y :1t thv high point 111 thv vznn 11:1 with thv wvuring.r t':1vv 1:20, whiiv thv v:nnt1:|vh 153 whoilv prvvvntv .Qin-h vnflngvlnvnt whiv svrvhmr h v its inviinntinn tv pvrniit n siight vvntinnons Inovvnlvnt ot thv :xrin 1111 tnwnrri thv vznn 1121 nniivr thv nvtion ot' thv spring 121. As wi11 hv ohsvivvd, thv spring 121 .Xs rvprvsvntvti movv pnrtivn1z1r1v in Figs. 4 111111 R ot' thv drawings. :1 Svgnivntni gap 155 iQ. forlnvii in vnv Sith' olV thv vinnvvhvvi to :1110111 C'vznzinvv for thv 1'o11v1-stn11 1-111 no :1 l to pvrlnit thv t'rvv vihintion of thv. :11111 lttinndvr thv nvtion of' thv :ivtnntingV 1*:1111 i1?) npnn thv :irni 1111 (hiring :1 portion of thv rotation of' thv vnntrohing vnzn. thvIvh'v pvrmitting thv tivvfihitog to rvvvivv :1 nimvmvnt. voi'rvsprmtling to thv t'n11 throw offthv fvvfi-mftlmting vznn in thv prothivtion of "1 portion of thv stitvhvh ot :1 svwinlvvviv. portion ot' thv uiltvr vzilivtruvk 152 is :ihm vnt` vnt for lvvvption o1 thv :nijlistnhhi 011:111- nvhii svvtion 151i whivh is 1. tt11'v11 to thv vznn hv invnns of tzitvning `vvrvws 15T pawing through invhnvd Hints.. 15h in thv svvtion 1511. liv hu'isvningf thv svrvws 15T. thv svt:- tion 131' muv hv Shit'tvii nynvnrtiiv nl" dmvrv ':11'i11 v in its :'vvvss so :1s to vhnngv its vontro1|ing poitirin rvhltivv to thv 1111101'- stnil 1119.

Hnitnhlv ivninziivri hvnvnth thv hvti-phitv is :in vnfhvisv mov:1h1v ntnpwod 15E! whosv forwnrii vini vXtvndS, in thv initini position 01' thv pnrts. hvnvnth thv 1owvr vthjv of thv strikingphnv 1110 svvnrvti hv SvrvwS 1111 upon thv i'vvci-iift :ivm 142. 11S 11=;'nv5v1itv:1 in Fig. so :1s` to maintain thv tvvfi-ehig in eivvntvei position and ont ot' the range me movement o1 thv iii'tinlLr wnn 11i?, whiiv thv voiler-Stud 1111 pvrtwrv4 it y Viovv :11111 vontntinng w0rh- :nimnving' niovvnivnt nnflvi thv vontrot of thv :5Min-travi( 15:1. fi'hv rml 131| hilS Xvtt thvrvian thv hnh 141; ot' :i :h-pv1n1i11gjn11111133 having' :i tint wpvmtiiv t'otwvrii t'nvvadupb w1 to vontnrt with thv hvzlci 11311 01' the pill 11*y to hif`t thv volivvstnll 119 forwurdlv nnvh'i thv :nftion o1 :i spring 1111 surroundint.V thv rmi 1511 :111:1 intvlposvtl hvtwvvn the in;t npwnriiiv throngjh :i Sint 1115 in the hvtibhitv. Ifixvtl iipon thv rod 1.79 sind extendin;r npwzirtitv through :i slot 11i-i in thv hvt'inhltv is :i .stint 11111 to thv nppvr vnci ot' which ii. rigidly svvnrvd thv svginvntnl :11111 16T vnrvving thv i'oiivrstnii 16S :nhiptvti for vn- ;fnglvnivnt with thv pvriphvlni projvvtion 1119 of :1 vani-dhd( 1711 fixvtt npon thv upper vnd ot thv tnhnhn hnh 111 ot thv vollpiing (hgh 1110.

Thv :irln 111i' is provitivd znljavvnt; thv 1o11vr'st11:l 1139 with n t'orwnrtiiv extending tingvwpivvv 171 :Inti :it thv opposite G1111 with n tooth 17; :niuptvti for engagement with :1 (ivtniningg` shonhivv att'ordvd by thv voihir 1721 `npnn thv 111101111 arm 174 of :1 hitvh-ivvvx flllvrlnnvti upon thv pnHhwod 175 nhivh iQ inninnivfi in thv hrm-hvt-pivcv 176 .Qvvni'vii to thv stznnhirii i? :111:1 vXtvntiS tlmvnvvzlriiiv through :in fipvrtlnv in the 11v 1-ph|tv 1. Thv hltvhivvvr is: formed vwith :1 1v:n'w;1r 11v txtvni'ling;V :11111 17T vnrrying thv tripping pin 1TH :11111 noi'rnniiv prvssvfi to bring' thv :l1-111 171 into hitvhing rvlntion with thv :irni 111711)' nivnns ot' :1 sp1-ingu. intvrposvti hvtwvvn thv :1n1v :intl thv 11:1Sv vf thv Htznnhirii t1. 1`hv hnh 17T' ot thv hltvhivvvr vxtvnth troni thv 1owv1 sitiv. thvrvof :111:1 rvstn noon thv top of thv hvcl-phitv in vontnvt with whivh it` is nmintninvd h v invnn` o1" thv rmt 1R11 Hvvnrvtt in thv 111g 1F11 ot' thv hltvh-h-vvr :11111 having itx nppvt vini vx'tvniivti hvnvnth thv 1n':1vhvt-pivvv 171i.

To thv pnHh-voii ITT hvhaw thv hrnvkvtpivvv 17V is' yvvvnrvi hv mvnns o1 the Svtsvrvw 19? thv 111111 1h51 of :i phn'nhnrmvtt nivnihvr voinpiising' thv vonpiingvontr011ing :irIn 1h11- huvinn svviirvti upon :i svnt in its ontvr vntl hv lnvmw of thv svrvw 195 thv wvzirin,"r phltv lSti :nhlptvli tor introiinvtion hvnvnth thv t1nn; tvo1h11l 111:1 of thv vonpivr rofl 111:1. Extvntiinu rv:1rwnrtl1v from thv huh 1542. iv :in :irni .1ST hztvint.r :1 fork 13S in ith` vxtvvniitv whivh vinhinvvs n tripping rmi 1R11 siittingiv monntvii in thv hvnringr memhv:` 1*.)11 toimvri 11pm: :in :Uni hnving :x Split voihtv 1111 vinnipvii h v lnvnns :if thv screw 1111? tlpnn thv osviihltonv ruth-1mi' 193 which ig ioni'nnivti in thv hvnrins*r invinhvrn 1111 of thv hi'nvhvt 1115 svvnrvat hv Hv'vvws 11115 upon t11vhv:1--p1:ltv 1 :it thv foot of thv Standard Q.

Thv rnvivhnv 15121 hns nvm' thv trip of it forward vxtrvmitv u aviivr: of nicks: 111i' :nhtptvd to hv vntvi'vt thv intlnnvci lip 19S :if :i Hat spring 15.111 sivcinvti .hy nit-11n? a screw 200 to a seat formed upon the top of a rigid arm 201 having a split boss 202 clamped upon the tripping rod 189 and formed at its free end with the fork 203 embracing the rod 193 and formed with the `slit 204 to receive the lip 198 of the s rin which latter is provided at its free en wit the button 205 for retracting the li 198I from one of the notches 197 in or er to shiftthe rod 189 relatively to the bar 193. The spring 199 is formed with an inturncd stop-flange 206 adapted to engage the upper member of the fork 203 to limit the rctrnctive movement of the spring.

The' bar 193 is surrounded by a spring 207 which is interposed between the rearward hearing member 191 and the collar 208 fixed thereon, and acting to normally press the bar 193 into extreme forward position with the collar 208 in contact with thc forward bearing member 194, as represented in Fig. 2, Formed in the front side of the bar 193 is a series of ratchet-teeth 209 (Figs. 17 and 18) extending forwardly over which is a pawl-retractingflange 210. In normal engagement with the ratchet-teeth 209 is the holding pawl 211 fulcrumed upona screwpin 21E' tapped into the bed-plate and an uctuatisg pawl 213 fulcrumed upon the screw-pin 214 on the reduced forward end of the rearwnrdlv extending arm 215 of a rock-lever mounted upon the fulcrum-stud 216 tapped into the bed-plate and having a foruardly extending arm 217 formed with a yoke 218 which embraces a cam or eccentric 219 fixed upon the tubular hub 99 of the coupling disk 100. The tail 213 of the awl 2-13 is formed in the rearward edge with a socket to receive a `spring 220 resting against the adjacent edge of the holding pawl 211, whereby both pawls are maintained normally in operative relation with thc ratchetteeth 209.

As will be,observed, for each rotation of the controlling cam-wheel 57 the rock-lever 215 217 receives one rocking movement.` and the counting bar 193 receives a step backwardly, carrying with it the tripping rod 189. The rod 189 is provided with a transverse tripping pin 221 which thu.'- receives step-h r-stcp movements toward thtl forked extremity 188 of thc arm 187 and at the end of a predetermined number of rotations of the. controllingr rain rngagcs thi` foi-iced @xtri-,inity of tinI tripping arm 1R?, thereby .shifting the plural-armed mrmlior 192) 184 1ST in opposition to thev torsional :nttion of the spring 222 whose opposite: ends are at tachcd respectively to the Collar 2251 ixcd lo the push-rod 175 und thc bracket-picco 171i, therein' reti-ailing the wearing plate 15st', from honpalh the lhrnstrollar ltlf and permitting 1hr coupling rod 103 to descend under the :ii-lion o its spring 108, thusl uncouplingthc controlling cum from the continuously driven disk 97. As the spring 222 is substantially stronger thanthe spring 108, it will be seen that the former acts to maintain the push-rod 175 in raised position with its stop-collar 224 in engaffement with the under side of the bracket-piece 176 and the spring 10S compressed to hold the coupling stud 106 in operative engagement with the disk 97.

The bracket-arm member 3 sustains the usual fulcrum-stud 225 upon which is mounted the presser-bur liftin rock-lever v226 to tne rearward arm of w lich is conncctcd by means'of the screw-,pin 227 the apertured head 228 of the treadle-rod 229 passing through the usual aperture in the hed-plate beneath which it is formed with the hooked extremity 230 to receive the upper cud of the chain 231 whose opposite end ia in practice connected with an actuating treadle. The treadle-rodhas secured thereon near its upper end by means of set-screws 232 the hub 233 of a laterally extending rigid arm 234 extending above the top of the push-rod 175, and it is also provided slightly above thc bed-plate with a Hxed collar 235 having in its lower face an upwardlyr and rearwardly inclined cam-face 236 adapted for engagement with the tripping finger 178 of the latch-lever 174 177, (Fig. 3).

Tn order to set the machine for a tacking and stitching operation, the treadle-rod 229 is drawn down to lift the presser-foot above the throat-plate 237 for introduction of the work, which causes the engagement of the collar 235 with the tripping finger 178, thus rlisengaging the collar 173 from the tooth 172 of the arm 167, which causes the stoprod 159 to advance under the action of its spring to bring its forward extremity beneath the. member 160 of the feed-lift bar 142 and simultaneously press the in 148 forwardly to shift the roller-stud Aneath the upper iol-tion of the inclinedV cam-track 15:1. At tw :aune time, the depression of the tripping rod 189 under the action of the fork 13S rauscs the rocking of the counting liar 1921 into the. full line position represented in Vig. 18. wherein the flange 210 engages the pins 211' and 213" upon the holding and actuating pawls 211and213 lo forcibly retract the latter from the ratchetteeth 201'). thereby permitting the counting har 192i to move into cxtreme forward linitial position under the action of its spring 207, as represented in Fig. 2. The depression of thil arm lS-i with thc push-rod 175 raus-cs the descent of the wearing plate 186 from the side of the thrust-collar 105 below thil latter beneath which it is caused to movo under the torsional action of the spring 222, and tinreleasc of thc trcadlc-rod 229 thereai'ivr permits thc push-rod 175 to rise under the action of the sprint: 222 and with it to rock the counting bai rc3 into initial position (represented in dotted lines in Fig. 18) and to lift the coupling rod 103 for coupling the disl; 100 and the attached cam-wheel 5i' with the coupling disk 9T.

As will be seen by reference to the accompanying drawings, the peripheral groove of the controlling cam is formed with a straight portion 56 followed by a full step 56 down ward and two half-steps 562 and 563 upward, the series repeated throughout the remainder of the circumference. As shown herein, the cam is designed to impart to the rocking frame 52 a sucoeion of 18 jogging movements in groups of three, one movement downward followed bv two upward movements of one-half the amplitude of the initial movement. Bythis means, the stitchforming mechanism receives a jog in one direction followed by a two-stage jog in the opposite direction, so that the needle punc ture for the second of each group of three stitches is di in a line intermediate the first and t punctures As herein shown, the transversely slitted lower portion of the presser-bar 238 has se cured therein by means of the fastening screw 239 the preer-foot shank '210 having rigidly connected therewith the foot-plate '241 formed with the transvemely spaced need1e-apertures 242 separated by the forwardly extending tongue Secured uponjthe forward end of the foot-plate by screws 244 is a hat spring 245 rrying the depending laterally spaced cord-detaining prongs or spurs 246 passing downwardly through a slotin advance of the tongue such prongs being disposed in front ofthe needle-a 242.

The foot-plate is provided intermediate its upturned forward extremity and the needle-apertures 42 with the lateral notches wthrongh which the oord-loop is led from above the forward portion of the foot-plate and through the laterally spaced longitudinal 'de-groov 248 in the bottom of the foot-plte, around the depending prongs MaslepresentedinFigslQand '20. Rearward of the needleholes and in register with both of the grooves 248 in the bottom of the footplate is the clearance channel 249 which the doubled cord is adapted to pass as the stitching and feeding Pmglm- As represented in Fig. 19g the foot-plate has seemed thereonrearward of the needle apertura by means of the screw 250 the transversely plates Q51 having formed near one edge the V-shaped notch 252 with a sharp cutting edge and aording anadjant downturned thread-nipping lip 253 to provide for the convenient severing and nipping of the needle-threads at the completion of a stitching operation In the application of cord-loops` as pre violy described, to the heel-Hap of a tabi.V

the treadlorod 929 is irst depressed to mise the pressebfoot and the fabric m is introduced under the latter with the upper edge m of the flap slightly in advance of the needleeapertures, and the cord c is then introduced beneath the preer-foot and a loop c thereof caught upon the rearward faces of the prongs Q46 from which it is drawn forwardly into the ooves 248 and then upwardly through t e notches 2l? from which the two limbs of the loop are led forwardly as represented in Fig. 19. The pres ser-foot is t en lowered by release of the treadle-rodt the several parts of the mechanism having been set in initial stitching position by actuation of the presser-foot lifter as previously described The setting of the machine in operation causes the production of an initial group of 18 closely spaced tacking stitches s s. the longer stitches s embracing theV oord adja cent the loop c and the shorter stitches s' embracing opposite sides of the cord and passing through the center thereof as represented at the left in Fig. 24. During the formation of these stitches, the stop-rod 159 sustains the feed-bar, 'as represented in Fig. 5, to maintain the feed-dog 136 constantly in engagement with the fabric m, and the feedactuating arm 119 is maintained continuously out of operative relation with the cam 113, but is caused to advance uniformly toward the sameLby action of the spring 121 and the roller-stud 149 resting upon the inclined cam-track 153.

Just as the stud 149 reaches the end of the cam-traek 153 and enters the clearance space 155, the noseor projection169 of the mm 170 engages the roller-stud 168` of the arm 167 and thereby retracts the stop-rod 159 to disengage it from the feed-lifting arm 142, simultaneously retreating the arm 163 to enable the roller-stud 149 to retreat into the range of action of the cam-track 15:2- The arm 167 being held in retracted posi tion by engagement with the latch-lever arm 174` the stitching proceeds with the rollerstud 55 in the straight portion of the cam groove 56 and the feed-actuating arm in full engagement with the cam 113, thereby pro ducing the six raightaway stitches a" extending along the inner sides of the cord c.

at the of the second rotation of the controlling cam the cam-track 152 entersthe range of vibratory movement of the roller-stud 149 under the action of the cam 113 upon the arm 119 (Fig. 6) and acts thereon as a stop to reduce the normal throw of the Same` thereby shorten'mg the feedstroke to produce the first sin initial stitches s 3 of the Second tack which are somewhat more widely spaced than those of the Erst tack. The encounter bv the Stud 149 of the adjustable cam-track section 156 now permits a somewhat greater amplitude of movement of the arm 119. whereby the Spacing of a second seri of Six stitches is somewhat increasedwhile the presentation of a final segment of the cam-track 152 similar to the fiist causes the production of a third series of six stitches Similar to those first formed. after which a series of six straightaway stitches is formed under the condi tions previously described.

It will be observed that the rod 49 constitutes a normally inactive operative element connected with the needle-jogging angle-lever to which is imparted periodical active movements through its connection with the controlling cam: the movements communicated to the needles through said element being at certain times of a twostage character in the production of the or overseam stitches s and at other times of a single stagecharacter as in the production of the stitches s, the needlesthus having jogging movements of consecutively dilerent amplitudes in the production of the zigzag or tacking stitches.

The tacking and straightaway stltchmg cycle last described is repeated a number of for which the counting device is adjusted. 0 with the initial notch 197, each notch of the rod 193 representing a rotation of the controlling calin the position of the trip-rod 189 determining the number of rocking movements of the pawlmrrying arm 215 to efect the tripping of the arm 187 bv the pin 221. As before explained, theshiftingofthearm l'causesthelateral movement of the arm 184 to disengage the wearing plate 186 from the thrufoollar 105, thereby the coupling rod 103 to descend under the action of its Spring 108 for uncoupling the controlling cam 57 from the coupling disk 97. As this uncou' pling takes place while the stoprod 159 is retracted and the roller-stud 149 is in register with the clearance gap 155 of the cam 57. it will be seen that the continued operation of the machine will now produce au iudelinite succcfon of parallel straightaway stitches. the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms acting` under Such condltions predselyr the same as in any ordinary straightaway stitching machine.

It will be observed that the adjustment upward or downward of the cam-track section 156 will effect a lengthening or shorten ingr of each of the tacks ailier the first. bv increasing or decreasing the spacing apart of the intermediate group of six stitches of such tack. It is also evident that in case it is desired to produce a succession of tacks composed of crowded tacking stitches. the manual shifting of the latch-lever 174 177 bv means of the linger-piece 174' during the production of straightaway Stitching succeeding an initial tack will permit the stopA rod 159 to ragtime initial position. so as to restore the controlling mechanism to starting Condition but. without aliecting the timing of the disengagement of the controlling cam imder the action of the counting device.

lt is obvious that the shifting of the feedregulator lever 132 will cause the shifting of the slide-block 1;.5 toward or from the rock-shaft 116, thereby varying the length of the straightaway stitches and the consequent spacing apart of the consecutive tacks As'is common in this class of machines. the presser-bar 238 has fixed thereon a col lar 254 formed with a backwardly extending stud 255 project-ing above the forward extremity of the treadle-actuated rock-le ver 226. and a second lateral Stud 256 extending above the presser-lifting cam-lever 25T. As be readily Seen. when the treadlesrod 29 is drawn downward to rock the lifting lever 226 for raising the presserfoot. the tack-controlling mechanism will be set for a cycle of operation as before described. but when the preer-footis manually lifted b v operation of the finger-le ver 257. such controlling mechanism will be let undisturbed. Provision is thus made in the machine for raising the presser'foot in continuous straightaway and while the cam 57 is inactive. or during` a cycle of operation controlled bv said cam and without aecting` its period of normal operation by actuation of the push-rod 175 with its controlling catch-lever 184 and forked countingbar diseugaging arm 187.

While the controllingm element 97 is shown provided with wormdriven means for turning it continuously in the same direction, it is evident that any other suitable means may be used for imparting thereto a constantmovement, that is. a movement during each stitchforming cycle which may be communicated to the cam 51 in the normal operation of thestitchmechanism. The roller-stud 149 constitutes a normally operative cam-follower which serves to rtrict in greater or less degrec. in conjunction with the cam-teracks 152 and 153. the maximum work-advancing action of the feeding mechanism, and it is obvious that the mechanism employed to this end may be Widely varied within the scope of the present invention.

In the present embodiment of the improvement` the of the ratchet-teeth 209 of thelrack-bar 193 is preferably proportionate lo the throw of the pawl lever arm 215. and the notches or nicks 197 of said bar arepreferably spaced proportionately also to the pitch of the ratchet-teeth.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention what l claim herein is:-

l. In a sewing machine, in combination. stitch-forming mechanism including a re ciprocating and laterally needle,

work-feeding means, cordpresenting means for directing a cord within the range of reciprocat'ion and lateral jogging movement of the needle` and automatically acting conmeans connected with said needle and acting thereon in the production or' successive groups of stitches, while the feeding nieanscontinue in operation. for imparting to szxid needle lateral jogging v.movements followed by intervals of lateral immobility, for production of spaced groups of zigzag stitch penetrating both the cord and the work at the side thereof with the. intermediate. straightaway stitches at the side of thecord- Y 2. Inla: wingfmachine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a re ciprocating and laterally jogging needle, work-feeding means, cord-presenting means for the cord within the range of reciprocation and lateral jogging movement of the needle, and automatically acting con- 0' means connected with said needle and acting thereon in the-production of sucof whilethe feeding means continue in operation, for imparting to said-needle lateral jogging movements followed by intervals of lateral for production of spaced groups of zigzag stitchespene the `cord and the work at both sides thereof. intermediate straightaway stitches at one side of the cord.

'z'lnfa machingthe combination with work-feeding means and a'cord-guide haringan orieefdirected'in the line of feed, of stitch-forming including a laterally Amovable needle-and forf imps1-tlm wf'oggm g movements v ere-to. o an nwidtlro'f Yorifice of conr'andactuatedfby a moving part offihemachine and acting atpredetermned the character of the sti 'l Afor production of alternate groups of taway and zigzag stitches respectively" atfthe side of and acord issuing from said guide 4. In aY `machine, the combination and work-feeding means of stitch-formingzmechanism including a re cproeatng' and laterally jogging needle. and controlling means connectrxl with said needleand acting thereon in the production of successive groups of stitch to alternately impart thereto single-throw and plural throwlateral movements and thereafter vmaintain the same laterally immovv able. whereby spaced groups of lateral stitches are produced at intervals both mir bracing and the cord- 5- In a the combination with and work-feeding means` of stitch-forming mechanism. including :i laterally needle with means for rcriprocating it throughoutthe period of aciion of the feeding mechanism, and controlling means colmected with said needle and acting thereon in the production of succsire groups of stitches to alternately impart thereto single-throw and plural-throw'lateral jogging movements and thereafter maintain the same laterally immovable, whereby spaced groups of lateral stitches are produced at. intervals both embracing and penetrating the cord with intermediate lin or" tmighmway stitches at one side of the cor 6. In a sewing machine, the combination with cord-guiding and work-feeding means, of stitchforming mechanism, controlling means therefor adapted to periodically vary the character of the stitching for successive production of groups of straightaway and zigzag stitches, and automatic controlling means acting intermediate the initial Aand final stitch-forming cycles of a zigzagstitch' ing period for varying the length of feed duringr the production of the zigzag stitches of each group of each of said groups of zigzag stitches.

In a sewing machine, the combination with cord-guiding and work-feeding means, of stitch-forming mechanism, controlling means therefor adapted to periodically vary the character of the stitching for succeive production of groups of straightaway and zigzag stitches, and automatic controlling means for the 'workfeeding means and including `an adiustable element and actuating means therefor acting intermediate the initial and final stitch-formng cycl of a zigzag stitching period whereby the rate of advance of the work between succsions of initial and final zigzag stitches of each group may. be determined.

8. In a sev-'ingV machine, the combination with work-feeding mechanism, and stitchorming mechanism-` of controlling means for the stitch-forming mechanism for a1- ternate production of straightaway and zigzag stitches. and controlling means for the worlpfeeding mechanian including a cam having a pluralitv of independentlv and successivehv operative 'oortions whereby the work is advanced at different rates of speed workenguging member, an element connected Wit-h said Work-engaging member, a plurality of mutuallv independent actuat ine' means for said elementand automatic controlling means for rendering said ac` mating means eective succeively.

an intermediate group of' 10. ln :i sewing machine, the c0mbination with stitch-forming and feeding mecl1- :inisms and controlling means acting antomaticilly throughout o period a plurality of siteh-omnng cycles and nected with the m'tohforming to ej'ectthe production of alternotegroups of tacking and straightaway stx of. means connected with and actuated X a. moving part o the for rendering oonirolling means inactive at of said period and while the stitch-ionizing and feeding mechanisms continue in ope eration 1L In a sewing machine, the :ion with stitch-forming and mechnnisms. and controlzg means acting automalcnll) a induding a plm-slit): of stitch-forming cycles vo onnected with the stitkfformng to eect the production of alternate g1-oops of lacking and straight-away of meanseonnected withandaetuotedb a. moving part of the machine and inc m i an adnsjng device for lts time of action for rendering said oontroL ling memsiaactive et the end of and while the stitch-forming and lf2- In :1 Sewing the tion with stitch-forming. feeding mech :mism of o cam operatively connected with the stitch-forming mecha,-v uism whereby alternate groups of straightawoy and making stitches are produced, means for said and means operatively connected with. a part 0f the mthihe for o-n l :al l cam from its actuating meanswhil the stckforming and feeding meohansmsloontinne in operation.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a com opeggtively com with in, mechanism whereby alternate groups of straight.- fnrn; and tacking are produced, actxmng means for said cam, means for slid com from its aetnaring means while the stitch-{omning and feeding mechaniqns continue in operation, and adjxstable means for timing the action oi said (Esco-meeting means.

14- In :i @Wing machine, the with work-fading mechanism. and stitch forming of controlling means for the stitch-forming mechanism for all remate product-ion of simightmv and zigzag stitches` controlling means for the work-feeding the Work Ls normally advanced at dilorent ms of speed for each of two spaced groupso zig? Zag stitches ond an intermediate group of rnightawaj; stitches. and menos connected with .said controlling means whereby the spacing of the stitches of a succeeding group of zigzag stitches may be made to conform with that of :1n initial group.

15. ln a sewing machine, the combination with work-feeding mechanism, and stitch-forming mechanism, of controlling means for the stitch-forming mechanism forV altemate production of straightawoy and zigmg stitches, controlling means for the work-feeding mechanism wherein' the work is normally advanced at dierent rates of speed for each of two spaced gmnps of stitches and an intermediate group of straightaway stitches, and means connected with said controlling means :mdf under the control of the erster whereby the spacing of the stitches 0f a wv-Hw group of zigzag stitches moi he made to conform with that of an initial group.

16. Ina sewingmachine, with stitch-forming of means operatively connected with and S32-pwd to ,Said stitch forming mechanism for alternate production of straight-away and feeding mechanism comprising a feed-dog, means for normalbr actuat- 2I-| andmemlsopemtively connected with a moving part of the connected' with and adapted to control said feeding mechanism to vary the action of the feedsdog during the production of sigzag stitches.

1l In a sewing machine, the combination comprising a mechanism, 0f

with work=feeding for altes-nate ppodnetion of sbagditfavay 12u and stitches. of feeding mechanism comprising a feeddogeedplitmg and ne cams opemtelv connected rec with said feed-doggY and ntrolling means "operatively connected with said feeding production of successive groups of zigzag stitches.

19. In a sewing machine. in combination with stitch-forming mechanism. of a controlling cam operatively connected with the stitch-forming mechanism whereby alternate groups of straight-away and zigzag stitches are. produced. of feeding mechanism comprising a feed-dog, feed-lifting and reciprociting aims and spring-pressed members connected with the feed-dog and normally maintained within the range of action of mid cams. of a stop member adapted tobe thrown into engagement with the feed-dog to maintain the same lifted during the production of' a predetermined group of zigzag stitches. and controlling means for said feeding mechanism adapted to impart to the feed-dog a progressive forward movement during the formation of said group of stitches. and to render inelective the action of the feed-reciprocating cam during such movement.

In a sewing machine`Y the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanism, of controlling means connected with the stitch-forming mechanism to effect the produclon of alternate groups of straightaway and zigzag stitches. feed controlling means comprising a movable arm-member provlded with a plurality of operative portions and a sum-pressed follower adapted for successive engagement with slid operative portions of the cam and having a connection with said feeding mechanism vrhereb;r the action of the latter is varied during the production of zigzag stitches 21. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanism, of controlling means connected with the stitch-forming mechanism toA ecct the production of alternate groups of straight-away and zigzag stitches, feed controlling means comprisinga rotarvcam formed with a track I having relatively adjustable operative por tions and a spring-pressed follower having a connect-ion with said feeding mechanism and adapted for sucive engagement with the operative portions of said cam. whereby the action of the feeding mechanism 1s varied during the production of zigzag stitches.

In a sawing machine.i the combination with stitch-fo mechanism including `a reciprocating and terally jogging needle, and needlej means, of a rotary controlling cam adapted for operative connection with said needlejogging means.' a constantly moving g element therefor,

and means for coupling said controlling cam with its element for rotation in unison with the latter.

23. In a sevrin machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism includinv o. reciprocating and laterally jogging needle.

and needle-jogging means, of a rotary controlling cam adapted for operative connection with said needle-jogging means. a constantly moving driving element therefor, manually actuated means for coupling said controlling cam with its driving element. and automatically acting means for unconpling said parts while the stitch-forming mechanism continues in operation- 24. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating and laterally jogging needle, needle-jogging means, and feeding mechanism, of a rotary controlling cam adapted for operative connection with said needlejogging means and feeding mechanism. a constantly moving driving element therefor. and means for temporarily coupling said controlling cam with its driving element for rotation in unison with the latter.

25. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formin and feeding mechanisms, of a. rotary operatively connected with said mec anisms, a constantly moving driving clement for' said cam, a coupling element carried by one of said parts and adapted to couple it with the'other, and operating means for said coupling element including oppositely acting springs of different strength and means for applying and relieving the pressure upon the stronger of said springs for imparting coupling and uncoupling movements to said coupling element.

26. In a sewing machine. the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rotary controlling cam operatively connected With said mechanisms. :1 constantly moving driving element therefor. a spring-retracted coupling element carried by one of said parts, and adapted to couple it with the other, and a spring-prscd actuator adapted for throwing mid coupling element into operative position.

27. In a sewing machine. the combination with Stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rotary controlling cam operativelyr connected with said mechanisms. :i constantly moving driving element therefor, a coupling element for connecting said parts, a shouldered coupler-rod for shifting the coupling element, a spring applied to said rod for moving it in one direction, an oscillatorr spring-preed push-rod. an arm carried by said rod and adapted for engagement with the shoulder of said coupler-rod. and means for shifting eudwisc and turning Vsaid push-rod En opposition to its spring.

28. In a sewing machine, the combination `With stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rotar?7 controlling crm operatively connected with Vsaid mechanisms a constantly moving driving element thereforT a coupling element for connecting said parts, a shouldered coupler-rod for shifting the coupling elemene` :i spring applied tosiid rod for moving it in one direction, :in oscillatory push-rod. an arm carried by said rod and adapted for engagement with the shoulder of said coupler-rod, 2 spring acting upon said pmb-rod in opposition to thatof the coupler-rod and adapted to turn sold arm into engagement with the cupler-rod, menus' for depressmg the push` -r or engagemen of its arm with the coupler-rod, and automn'tically acting means for disengagement of said arm from the coupler-rod.

'29. In a sewing machine, the combination with Snitch-forming and eedingmechanisms, of a rotary controlling camadapted for operative connection with said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisns for cally changing the chal-acier of the stitching and varying che feeding movements, a constantly moving element, con e means for connecting cam with t iving element, and automatically acting means connected with said coupling means for disconnecting said cam from the driving element while the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms continue in operation.

30. In a machine, the combination with stitch-forming and n' mechanisms, of a rotary controlling cam adapted for operative connection mid stitchforming and feeding mechanisms for periodically changing the character of the and varying the movements`- a constantly moving element` coupling means for said cam with the element, means connected with said coupling means for said cam from the element while the sami-forming and feeding contnne in operation, and means acting at the completion of a plurality of consecutive rotations of said com for throwing said disconn 0 means into action.

3L In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisns.A of a rotary controlling cam adapted for operative connection with said stitchforming and feeding mechanisms for periodically changing the character of the stitching and varying the feeding movements. a coumtljv moving element, coupling means for. said cam with the element, means connected with said coupling means for said cam from the element while the stitch-forming and feeding continue in operation, and means adjustable for operation :Liter any number of rotations ci slid cam Within a. predetermined maximum for said means imo action.

32 In a sewing the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, .of a rotary cam adapted for operative connection with saidstitchnisms, of a rotary controlling com adapted u for operative connection with said stitchforming and feeding mechanisms for periodicnlly changing the character of the stitchwith l mg :1nd varying the feeding movements1 a constantly moving driving element7 coupling means for connecting said cani with the element and including a controlling catch-lever for maintaining such connection, a. reciprocatory trip-device for said catch-lever, means connected with seid cam Yfoi'l imparting to said trip-device stepby-step operative movements from an initial position3 and means for said tripdcvice to initial position after a tripping aci-ion- 3-1. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rotary controling cam operatively connected with said mechanisms, driving means therefor, a coupling device for connecting seid cam with its driving device., and means connected with sid ccnpling device for disconnecting said cam and its driving device imdcomprising a catchlever. :1 spring-retracted rack-bar, a pavvlcarrying lever, a pawl mounted thereon and adapted for engagement with said rackbar. a paul-actuating cam rotating with said controlling com for vibrating the panfllever, a trip-rod mounted upon said rack-bnr and adapted for engagement with said catch-lever, :v -nd means for dsengaging slid pawl from the rech-bar.

35. In a machine, the mbinnon with stitch-forming :ind feeding mechanisms` of a rot-ary controlling :im operatively connected 'with said mechanisms., dri ving1r means therefor. a coupling device for connecng said com with its driving device, and means connected with said coupling device for disconnecting said cam and im driving eice and comprising a catch-lever. :1

rack-ber formed vidi n series of notches spaced apart proportionately Withnt-he pitch of its teeth, a poWl-cnrring lever, a pavvl mounted thereon :1nd adapted for engagement with said rack-bar, a pair!- acinating cam rotating with slid controlling cam for vibrating the pawl-cnrrying lever an adjustable collar mounted upon said nick-har and provided ith a spring-pressed latch-tooth adapted to enter one of the notches or' the rack-ban a trip-rod sustained bv seid collar and adapted for e. gageznent with said catch-lever, and means for diseniglng pawl from the rack-bar. i d6. in a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisrns a presser-foot, and lifting means therefor` of a rotarfr controlling cam operarifrelv connected with said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, a constantly morins' drivng element therefor, a coupling devvice for temporarily connecting said cam with the driving element, meins acting upon said coupling device and controlledbjr the rotation of said cam for disconnecting the latter from its driving element after plualitv of consecutive rotations thereof. and means controlled by the lifting of the preer-foot for restabljshing through sold coupling device operative relation between said element and cam.

3T. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisnss a presser-foot, and lifting means therefor, of a rotary controlling cam. operatively connected with slid ntch-formingand feeding mechanismsva constantlr moving driving element therefort a couphng dev lce for temporarily connecting said cam the element, means actmg upon mld coupling device and controlled by the rotation of said mm for the -latter from its driving elementafter a plurality of consecutive rotations thereof, means controlled by the lifting of the'pressenfoot f or resablishng through said device operative relation between sind driving element and cam, and means independent of said pmu-foot lifting means whereby .the presser-foot, ma)7 he lifted Without alfectmg slid coupling device.

38, In a. sewing machine, the combinaison with sttch-ormiug"and mechanisms of a rotary controlling cam operativelv connected with said stitch-forming and feeding for periodically the character of the and varying the feeding movements1 a driving element adapted to impart'. to said cam :1 sm gte rotation during a plurality of stitchfonning cycles, a normally inoperative coupling device adapted to operatively connect'. said cams with its driving element for any rme of said plurality of stitch-forming c vcles but permitting the manual turningof the cani preparatory to its coupling action for setting the same correspondingly 'mth the desired stitch-forming cjfcle and controlling means for said coupling device,

E. In a sewing machine, the combination vith stitch-forming mechanism, and Workfeeding mechanism, of controlling means for the stitch-forming mechanism for alternate production of straightaway and zigzag stitches, controlling means for the workfeeding mechanism normally adapted to restrict the act-ion of the feeding mechanism during the production of a succession of zigzag stitches and to permit a more extended range of action for an adjacent succeion of straightaway stitches and connected zigzag stitches, and manually controlled means connected with said controlling means for causing a repetition of the restricted feeding action after an initial restricted feeding action.

40. In a sewing machineA the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and workfeeding mechanism, of a controlling cam, a connection between said m and the stitchforming mechanism for effecting the alternate production of straghtaway and zigzag stitches, a connection between said cam and the work-feeding mechanism, means controlled by said cam normally adapted to cause a restricted action of the feeding mechanism during the production of a succession o zigzag stitches and to permit a more extended range of action for an adjacent succession of straightaway stitches and oonnected zigzag stitches, meansfor said cam, coupling means for connecting the cam with its driving means: automatically acting means connected with said coupling means for disconnecting the cam from its driving means at the completion of a plurality of rotations, manually controlled means for rendering said automatically acting means ineffective, and manually controlled means connected with said contro 0' means for causing a repetition of the restricted feeding action after an initial restricted feeding action.

41. In a sewing machine, the combination with a tubular needle-bar-and means for imparting thereto endwise reciprocating movements, of a plurality of laterally movable needle-holders carried by said needle-bar, needles mounted in said holders, a rod journaled within and reciprocating with said needle-bar, means for oscillating said rod, and a positive connection between said rod and said needleholders for imparting to the needles simultaneous lateral jogging movements of equal amplitude t2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a tubular needlcbar and means for imparting thereto eudwise reciprocati movements, of a plurality of laterally and independently movable needle-holders carried by said needle-bar: needles mounted in slid holders, a rod journaled within and reciprocating With slid needle-har= means for oscillating said rod, and crank-and-pitman connections between said rod and needle holders- 43. ln a sewing machine, the combination with a tubular needle-bar and means for immoeren parting thereto endivise. ieciprocating movements. of a plurality of laterally movable needle-holders carried by said needlebar. needles mounted in slid holders, a rod jourz naled Within and reciprocating with said needle-har, a bracket jonrnaled concentricallv with the needle-bar and having a spline-and-groove connection with said rod, means for rocking said bracket, and an operative connection for imparting to the nee dles simultaneous lateral jogfng movements of equal amplitude.

l. In a serving machine, the combination with tvvo reciprocating needles adapted for relative lateral movement. loop-takers circularl)T movable upon dierentaxes and ada ted to cooperate with the respective needlls, and actuating means for imparting operative loop-seizing movements to said looptakers, o loop-taker supports movable each toward and from the other and transversely of the axis of movement of its respective loop-taker, and means connected with eich of said needles and the support for its co operating looptaker for producing sim'ula neous lateral movements or said needles and their tive loop-takers toward and from the other needle and loop-taker.

45. In a sewing machine, the combination with two reciprocating and laterally movable needles, loop-takers coperating with the respective needles, and means lfor imparting operative loop-seizing movements to said loop-takers, of laterally and relatively movable supports upon which said looptakersaremounted,arockingrame,acam for imparting operative movements thereto, connections between said rockingframe and the needles for to the lather simultaneo lateral jogging movements toward and from each other, and connections between said rocking frame and the loop taker supports for imparting to the latter simultaneous jogging moveanemts toward and from each other corresponding in amplitude with those of the needles.

46. In a sewing machine, thecombination vvith two reciprocating and laterallyr movable needles, loop-takers cooperating with the. respective needles, and means for imparting operative loop-seizing movements to sai loop-takers of laterally and relatively movable supports upon which said loop-takers are mounted, a rocking frame, a cam formed wi lh active and inactive portions and adapted to impart to said rocking frame a series of rocking movements follovved b v a of inaction, connections between slid rocking frame and the needles for to the latter simultaneous lateral movements toward and from each other, and connections between mid rocking frame and the loop-taker Supports for imparting to the latter simultaneous 6 movements toward and from each other corresponding in :amplitude rfih those of the m'mllcs li. ln a sewing l'uzichiirc. the combination with work-feeding means. and cord-guiding meins comprising :i presser-foot formed with later-ally spaced mrd-grueling channels and provided withadependingcord-loop detaining member. of stitch-forming mechaniz-:m including a reciprocating and laterallv inging needle. and controlling means con net-ted with said needle and acting thereon in the production of successive groups of stitches to alternately impart thereto lateral jogging movements and thereafter maintain the same laterally immovable, whereby spaced groups of lateral stitches are produced which embrace the cord.

3. In a sewing machine. the combination with a work-feeding means, and cord-guidme means comprising :i promet-foot formed 'with needle apertures and laterally spaced cord receiving channels leading to mid apertures and provided with a cord-loop detaining spur projecting from its lower face, of stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating and laterali)v jogging needle, and controlling means connected with said needle and acting thereon in the production of successive groups of stitches to alternately impart thereto lateral movements and thereafter maintain the same laterally immovable, whereby spaced groups of lateral stilthes are produced which embrace the co 49. In a sewing machine, the combination with cord-guiding means, of stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms adapted for succwive production of series of straightaway stitches and intermediate series of zigzag stitches of di'erent depths, and controlling means operative at intervals embracing a plurality of stitcnforming cycles and connected with the stitcbforming mechanis'fr for eecting changes between straightavvay and zigzag stitching and including a normally inactive operative element with mear-s connected with and adapted to impart to said element movements of consecutively different amplitude.

50. In a wing machine, the combination with work-feeding means and a cord-guide having an orifice directed in the line of feed, of stitch-fo mechanism, means for producing relative )ogg-ing movements between the stitchiorlning mechanism and said cordguide, and controlling means connected with the jogging means and actuated by a connection with a moving part of the machine for effecting the interruption of the action of said means for periods of predetermined length and each including a plurality of stitch-forming cycles 5l. In a serving machine.y the combination with oversiming stitch-forming and feed ing mechanisms adapted for successive prt duction of series of Simightaxvay stitches and intermediate series of overseam stitches of a cord-guide having an orifice narrower than the range of movement of the stitch forming mechanism when producing oversealn sitches and directed in the line of feedf and controling means intermediate the stitch-forming mechanism and a moving art of the machine and acting automatcaly at intervals of redetermined length for e'ecting changes tween the straightawajr and overseam stitching. whereby a cord may be bound to a body fabric b 'f spaced groups of oveiseam stitches connected by lines of stmightaway stitches at the side and beyond the edge of the cord.

52. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, controlling means for the stitch-forming mechanism for alternate production of straightaway and zigzag stitches feeding mechanism including a work-engaging member, an elementconnectcd with said work-engaging member, three independent-Ly acting actuating means for said element, and controlling means for rendering said actuating means effect-ive in a .fixed order of succession.

523. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of controlling means therefor for alternate produc- 'tion oi' Straightaway and zigzag stitchesT work-feeding mechanism, a plnraity of muruaiy independent-1y operable actuating means therefor. and automatic controlling means for said actuating means operating to render them effective in a fixed order of succeion.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subclibinv Witnesses.

LBERT H. DE von.

Yitnessesz W. P. STEWART, H. A. Koxsmmwr, Jr.

Copies af this patent may be obtained far five cents cach, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. C.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,164;789, granted December 21, 1915, upon the application of Albert H. De Yoo, of Westfield, New Jersey, for an improvement in "Tacking and Stitching Machines, errors appear in the printed pecoationreqluirng correction as follows: Page 4, strike out lino 76 and insert the words und numeral hui, 162 and a bearing member of the bed-l.' page 8, lines 89-90, claim 6, strike out the words "ofthe zigzag stitches o1' each group Jg and that the said'Letters Psi-tent should be read with these corrections therein that the same muy conform tothe record of the oase in the Patent- Office.

signed and Sealed this 21st day of March, A. D., 1916.

J. T. NEWTON,

Acting Comiriiss'ioner of Patents. 

